Aquality Service

Monday, June 12, 2017

January 13, 2012

Keeping aware of your treatment equipment

Don't be too lackadaisical about monitoring your water treatment equipment . . .

Sometimes we get calls from customers that accidentally notice that their UV system is out of order, in alarm, or the filters haven't been changed for eons, or the softener hasn't had salt added for a year (so that's why there's iron staining on the new sinks!).

While we carefully database and notify all our customers for when their UV lamps are due, or other major service work is or intervals are required (sleeve cleaning, filter changes), it is important for customers to take some ownership over the safety of their own water, and set-up a system of regular periodic checks of their water treatment system.

TIP: Put it on the calendar every month to check on things. (This is especially important if your treatment equipment is in an outbuilding or tucked into a corner of your crawlspace, garage or basement.) If a power outtage occurs, write yourself a post-it note to check, when the power comes back on, that the UV and other treatment equipment has restarted and is functioning normally.

Power out -- checking your UV when Hydro is restored . . .

As the winter winds doth blow, so too come inevitable power outtages on the BC coast.

It is always good practice to refrain from using your taps (the residual pressure in your water system pressure tank), when there is no power. This is especially important when you have any history or suspicions that your water is not safe without UV treatment (i.e. all rainwater systems; past positive e-coli tests from your well water).

Three pointers to follow when your power comes back on:

1) Be sure to check to make sure your UV is indeed powered up and not in alarm (beeping or wailing). It may need to be reset (by unplugging for 10 seconds and/or pressing reset button while plugging back in). If this doesn't help, sadly the power cut may have caused your power supply/ballast to fail completely. We strongly advise you put your UV on a dedicated outlet (not sharing an outlet/circuit with a jet pump or centra-vac, etc), and use a good quality surge protector. Much more rarely, a power outtage could cause the lamp too blow, but it will typically show signs of "blackout" at the ends if this is the case.

2) Pour about 1/2 - 1 cup of regular household bleach/chlorine 5.25 - 6 % (unscented, NO fibreguard ) in your filter housing closest to the UV and draw water to all your water lines -- sinks, toilets, showers, etc. -- by running the water for a minute or two at all fixtures and taps. Leave for 20-30 minutes and then flush lines clear of all chlorine odour. Important: if you have an RO system, you will want make sure to shut-off inlet to RO before you use this much chlorine as it will do damage to your system's membrane.

3) If this does not seem practical and you are quite sure you didn't use lots of water at all the taps during the power outtage, at the very, very least, when the power comes back on and you know your UV is working fine, draw water to all your water lines -- sinks, toilets, showers, etc. -- flushing the waterlines fully open for a minute or two at all fixtures and taps

Winter on the West Coast

Time to make sure all your pipes are protected from freezing. Check rainwater collection pipes, gutters and downspouts for being clear and cleaned regularly to ensure you are getting all that plentiful winter rain, AND if extended sub-zero temperatures are in the forecast, ensure your rainwater cleanout/diverter is opened so that your collection pipe doesn't freeze and crack

Good value and competitive pricing . . .

      Here at Aquality Water Treatment, we are constantly checking our prices with other suppliers and retail outlets to ensure we are as competitive as possible -- meeting or beating prices of many hardware stores and suppliers on Vancouver Island.
      We are a long-time established, major dealer of Viqua Inc. (Trojan and Sterilight) and Waterite Inc. (filters) UVs and water treatment equipment on B.C.'s Gulf Islands.
     Our commitment is to excellent customer service, fairness and professional integrity. We maintain detailed customer service records and make sure we have your water treatment supplies in stock when you need it.

Summer HEAT and water supplies . . .

OK, so it doesn't quite get this hot and dry here on the south coast! But water tables will be dropping soon, and so homeowners should be moving into full-on water conservation mode.

Here are a few pointers . . .

Do only full loads of laundry, and no multiple loads in one day.
Get a water-saving shower head -- e.g. Water-Pik that allows you to shut-off flow at head for soaping up.
Tell all your house guests the Gulf Islands toilet mantra: "if it's yellow, let it mellow . . ."
Let your grass "go native" in our natural dry season; it bounces back in the fall.
If you have a low-recovery well -- maybe this is the summer to finance and install a well-to-cistern-to-house system so you can slowly trickle fill a cistern to have a reservoir of water.
Water the tender flowers and veggies in the early morning or late evening.
Buy a well-watcher to monitor your well level if you've had a past history of it running dry.

Rainwater collectors . . . . Get ready for pollen season!!

Soon tree pollen will be drifting down, covering cars, lawn furniture, roofs and gutters. If you harvest rain for potable use, you need to be a good rainwater farmer and take steps to bypass and divert pollen-laden rainwater from getting into your cistern.

Australia, Texas, Oregon and several Caribbean nations are leaders in rainwater collection. Various sources from these regions as well as field knowledge gathered from hundreds of our customers collecting rainwater here on Gabriola, have given us some essential recommendations on maintaining your rainwater harvesting system. Here are tips to keep in mind:

AQUALITY WATER TREATMENT
RAINWATER HARVESTING TIPS. . .

Overall:

 Monthly: spend about 10 minutes and do a walkabout of your system. Ensure gutters and downspouts aren’t plugged, screens are in place, pipe is not broken or leaking. Check cistern water level with a pole, gauge or tape and record in a log book. Check whole-house filters, change if needed. See that pump pressure is stable and not cycling (if it is, there may be a leak or faulty check valve). Ensure UV is on and not in alarm.

 Ensure gutters are in good condition and clean; put a screen/strainer over the gutter downspout hole to keep out mosquitoes and other insects from your pipes.

 Ensure collection cistern has leaf & insect screen in place, hatches are closed and overflow pipe, vents are screened to keep out critters.

 Periodically – (e.g.) yearly, biennially or at a time you think is necessary, clean your cistern(s) and flush out your collection pipes.

 Though Century Cisterns are HDPE-UV-stabilized, it’s a good idea to shade your cisterns to help reduce sunlight intensity and moderate the water temperature.

 If you have a first-rain diverter or cleanout – ensure you have it emptied and ready to go for the next rain after an extended dry-period.

 Occasionally, add plain 5.25% household chlorine bleach to your cisterns (dose: approx ¾ cup per every 1,200 gallons of stored water) to help kill organisms that may be present. Hydrogen peroxide -- 35% food grade -- can be used instead (dose: approx. ¼ to ½ litre per every 1,200 gallons of stored water). Use hose or bucket to re-circulate water in cisterns for 10 - 20 mins.

+ Spring/Summer:

 During extended dry periods (e.g. greater than 7-10 days) ensure your system is ready to bypass/divert the first rain so it cleans your roof and the atmosphere of pollutants. The only researched guideline on this is to allow for at least 10 gallons of rain to be diverted for every 1,000 sq ft of collection surface for a “typical roof”. If you have a piped-in first flush diverter, ensure it is empty and ready to accept the first-flush of rain. Otherwise, bypass your cistern and give a solid rainstorm about 2-4 hours of cleaning time before collecting.

 Clean and flush your gutters, collection pipes and roof after pollen season.

+ Fall/Winter

 Continue diverting first rain after any extended dry period.

 Ensure system is ready to go for the big winter rains. Collect rain continuously.

 Ensure “wet collection” & supply pipes are protected from freezing by earth or insulation. If you have a “wet-pipe” collection system and extended sub-zero temperatures are forecasted, open up your clean-out/rain diverter and empty the collection pipe of water so it doesn’t freeze and crack your collection pipes!

How to Change Your Sterilight UV lamp

Here's a YouTube "How-to" video link posted by a colleague.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMJ9RMoBn6Y

Home Design & Build -- Cisterns with Bypass/First Rain Diverters!!

In my business, I spend much of my time chatting with islanders, and reminding them of the basic techniques of being a good "rainwater farmer": watching the skies, using simply devised, easy to operate first rain diverters, maintaining treatment systems, and avoiding the plague of tree pollen season. It doesn't take much -- 10 -20 minutes every month for a homeowner to keep their systems operating effectively.

I hope that many of the home builders/designers will take heed too. I visit many homes that have cistern collection pipes hard-plumbed in, so that diverters and bypasses have to be scabbed on as an afterthought. And once a few heavy pollen seasons and decomposing debris build-up in the cisterns, water quality is very poor. It's a shame for beautiful homes to have what amounts to old pond water for their household supply.

If you are in the process of getting a home designed with a cistern built-in to the foundation, be sure to ask your builder to incorporate:

Roof collection rain diverters/bpyass pipes -- so that 10 gallons of "first rain" per every 1,000 sq ft of rooftop collection surface is able to be diverted from your cistern;
Incorporate chamber design into your concrete cistern -- so that one chamber at a time can be isolated, drawn down and cleaned periodically, while still maintaining a supply of water to the house.
If separated chamber design is not practical, construct a sump area or collection well into the cistern so that the rainwater inlet filling the cistern is partially dammed, calmed and isolated from the rest of the reservoir. A weighted half-height rain barrel would do. That way, rainwater falls into the barrel first (along with debris) before spilling over the submerged edges to fill the cistern

Become a Rain Gardener . . .

On B.C.'s Gulf Islands and in many other rural areas, increased housing developments are creating additional pressures on well water quantity and quality.

There is a growing consciousness that how we care for the surface areas of our properties has a direct impact on groundwater quality. There are regulations in place for restricting pollutants, septic system issues, and manure management that cause groundwater pollution, but there is a lack of direct guidance on landscape maintenance to provide the best rainwater collection and filtration capabilities.

Rain Gardening is an urban stormwater management technique that can be used to inspire thinking along these lines . . . http://www.raingardennetwork.com/ is one resource.

Essentially gardens and yards should be designed to have a diversity of bio-geographically suited grasses, shrubs and trees that help filter and slowly percolate rainwater into the ground. The less monoculture, pavement, channelling and ditching of runoff, and bare, compacted ground areas the better. Leave your forested areas with a healthy understory of grasses and shrubs.

Help! Manure Management on the Gulf Islands

Is there proper manure management for horses, hobby animals on Gabriola and other Gulf Islands? The answer: slim to none. Most acreages or hobby farms I visit are blissfully unaware of proper manure management techniques.

Our extremely wet, soggy winters and highly porous soil and subsoil structure combined with an uncovered, unmanaged manure pile is a complete recipe for guaranteed groundwater contamination. Not only e-coli and possible pathogens, but nitrate loading of groundwater -- extreme health hazard. Treatment for Nitrates is complex and expensive. Best practice: manage your manure carefully, and avoid problems.

An excellent B.C. resource is http://www.manuremaiden.com/

Prevent leaching -- cover, contain, compost! (image courtesy: manuremaiden.com)

La Nina is coming this winter!!! Be ready for freezing temps

With predictions of cold, freezing temperatures on the BC coast this winter, ensure your water treatment sheds, rainwater collection systems and pipes are protected as best as you can from winter's wrath.

See our blog post from Monday June 12 2017

"Rainwater collection system ready for cold weather? " for more details . . .

Resetting to extend lamp life temporarily

All UV lamps need to be replaced every 9,000 hours (approx. 1 year) of continuous, lit up usage. Newer models will have a reminder "beep beep" alarm to tell you it's time to replace the UV lamp and service the system. If you can't replace the UV lamp right away when it comes due, you can silence the alarm by doing the following:

WITH A RESET BUTTON ---

Press and hold reset button for a loooonnng slow count of five seconds and release. This will silence alarm for 7 days. You can do this up four times before it will no longer silence and must be changed.

WITHOUT A RESET BUTTON, OR RESET DOESN'T SEEM TO WORK . . .

Unplug UV at outlet and wait 10 long seconds.
Then, while pressing down reset button of UV power supply (if it has one), plug UV back in and wait for the following (depending on UV power supply model): solid beep and then it silences, or solid beep and the words on LED display "reSET" are lit up. As soon as this occurs, take finger off reset button.
The beeping should stop and lamp should light up. If it does not, it may be that the power supply has been damaged from the outage, or more rarely, the UV lamp is burnt out.

WATCHING THE TREATMENT TRENDS!

Over the years, many treatment technologies have tried to break -in: new gimmicks, new claims, new brands. Overall the industry moves like a big ocean liner, slow and steady, and mass wins out over the smaller and less obvious.

When choosing water treatment equipment you want to look for a product with a good reputation and track record and that is in common use and readily available in the marketplace (so you can be confident parts, warranty, and service will be around for a long time for your system).

UVs, RO's and filter housings with changeable filters in common sizes, and fittings are the "go-to" systems for the vast majority of island homes.

More recent trends and developments we are watching are: Whole-house automatic ultra filtration systems or UF Systems (as a substitute to prefilters and UV) ; engineered sand automatic backwashing filters (as a substitute to prefilter cartridges); undersink UF systems (as a substitute to POU - RO's)

As we see more evidence of these systems in use in areas with water conditions similar to ours, we may see them installed in homes here more often. The economics and long-term availability of parts and supplies are the final determining factors in most cases.